Day 9 - Wytheville

Today was rather defined by the people I met than by the route. The first part took me trough the Christiansburg-Radford-Blacksburg metropolitan area, then some miles on backroads and finally on a frontage road (a road that parallels a major interstate/freeway).
Riding on frontage roads is hard work. While the actual interstate is cut trough the hills, frontage roads are more like a rollercoaster.

In the little town of Draper I stopped at Thomas' bike store, which the British guy had strongly recommended the day before. He was right! Thomas has done the transam last summer and runs the bike store since then, helping cyclists wherever he can. We talked about cycling, ate cinnamon rolls and took pictures of each other before I headed off. No one cycling in the area should miss that place!

On the last miles before Wytheville I stopped at McDonalds for "dinner". When I left the building a woman asked me where I was going to. A talk I have pretty much everywhere I stop. But I never had that question before: "May I get your first name to pray for you?" I told her about my trip and she took a picture of the other people from her group and me, in front of my bike. Jut before I went on they gave me one of these souvenir-rings, with some christian phrases on it. I was quite surprised, but no question I'm gonna take this gift to San Francisco.

Some miles later a truck passed by and stopped on a driveway. It was Thomas again! He had been in Wytheville and had decided to take the frontage route back to his place, since he knew I was riding there. So we sat in the grass for a while, eating another cinnamon roll.
What a nice surprise!

Few words about the weather: the first 20 minutes of the day I cycled trough rain, then the sun came out and my clothes where dry within minutes. During the day I felt some raindrops several times, but it never began to rain.

Day 8 - Christiansburg, VA

What most people would call "bad weather" continued today: overcast sky. For a bicyclist it's not too bad, there's gonna be a time when I get more sunshine than I want... The route was both backroads and major highways today, nothing remarkable. Except for the last few miles when I had the steepest hills so far. That type of hill where you have a hard time just staying on your bike even in the lowest gear. Even harder if there's a uphill right-turn and you have to ride on the inner edge of the street to get out of the cars' way. First time on this trip I felt actual pain in my legs. Need to get used to that kind of climbs, many still to come.

Met a guy from Great Britain on his last days to Yorktown. We shared spots to camp in both directions and talked about the trip. In contrast to the rumors on the web he had no problems with the infamous Kentucky dogs and had never needed his dog repellent spray, so he gave it to me. Hopefully I will be able to pass it over to another guy in some weeks - unused.

Looking forward to my first american-style pancake-breakfast on this trip. Finally found a place. Should be some good fuel for the next miles. 

By the way: I'm done with the first of 10 maps. 367 miles or 587 kilometres so far.

Wifi nation USA

Just a note:
It's unbelievable how available WiFi is in the US. Not only every burger shack has it, even on back roads in the middle of nowhere I receive WiFi from houses I don't even see. Germany is far far away from that!

http://goo.gl/maps/3eRYS

Day 7 - Troutville, VA

Rain started again several times during the night but thanks to the pavillon I stayed dry. The next morning was unusually cold and the peaks around me were covered by fog. I made the first 10-15 miles in no time because the route followed a river; rivers tend to flow downhill.
For the rest of the day I went up and down the hills. I didn't feel exhausted from the climbs the day before, was even stronger.

The heavy rain had made the rivers brown and overflowing, one time even the road was under water.

A few miles before my actual goal I passed "Camp Bethel" a campground closed down for some christian summer camp. I briefly read a paper with advisories for the camp hosts. Found it funny and weird at the same time that the hosts were asked to tell parents every notable thing about their kids but "DO NOT report pretty bad behavior or activities that don't represent the story of Camp Bethel". What does that teach the kids?

Tonight I'm gonna stay in Troutville, a town of 500.
This place is every bicyclist's haven!
They got a large town park with two massive pavillons where hikers and bikers are invited to camp. The park has restrooms and water, the pavillons light and power outlets. As if that wouldn't be enough, the local firehouse lets guys like me use their shower!
There's even an open WiFi somewhere, too far away to be reliable though.
All the things mentioned above (also see pictures) are taken for granted in everyone's daily life, but for a bicyclist on a long tour it's luxury - at no cost! You're great, Troutville!

Right now it's getting windy and the sky allows no doubt: There's gonna be another rainstorm tonight. No reason to worry for me though.

Wildlife seen so far:
Deer, seems to be used to humans in the US, in Germany you can't approach it that close.
A snake trying to get over a highway.
A snake, having failed that task, being picked up by a large bird.
Birds of every species, small colorful ones, large ones flying high above my head (I've mentioned the Black Vultures).
Squirrels, probably a number in the three digits.
Two turtles.
(Maybe a mountain lion)

Not too bad, so far. Hope I can add a bear to this list as I could last year (even three times).

Day 6 - Vesuvius, VA

First big climb today: across the Blue Ridge Mountains on the Blue Ridge Parkway, an "all-american-road" closed for commercial traffic.
I must confess, I didn't feel ready for it. Looked way to steep on the elevation profile. Well, now I can say it wasn't as painful or even impossible as I had it expected to be. Of course I took lots of (short) stops by the side of the road, but it was fun and after gunning down the steep descent I've finally arrived. Couldn't avoid rain this time but what came down was not even close to the day before, no big deal.

The Blue Ridge Mountains reminded me of the Black Forest (that's not far from where I live), both are worth a trip and I hope I can come back some day to do one of the various hikes in the area.

Tonight I'm camping on the lawn behind Gertie's store, a well-known place among transam-cyclists. Update: Pitching my tent under the pavillon was a good choice. I've never seen a rainstorm like this. Brutal! I'm pretty sure the tent wouldn't have kept me dry and I've no idea what I would have done without the pavillon. I'm probably gonna find it out on this trip though...

Even under the pavillon I had to deal with rain, the wind just blew it in. Wait for the video!

Day 5 - Afton, VA

From Charlottesville I rode to Afton, just at the beginning of Blue Ridge Parkway. Nothing to say about the landscape, not different from the day before, except that last steep climb into Afton. Had a late start and about 10 miles before I made it to Afton a storm came in. Smart as I am I seeked shelter at some farm sale and it turned out to be a good choice. Minutes later literally a wall of rain hit me - hadn't seen something like that before.
I'm gonna upload a video on YouTube later.
Well, finally I made it to the Cookie Lady's house in Afton.
Who's the Cookie Lady? Bicyclists know here, but some words:

In summer 1976 America celebrated 200 years of independence. A group of bicyclists decided to do a ride across the country as part of these celebrations. The word was spread and about 4.000 people joined the ride that summer.
June Curry already lived in Afton that time. When she saw all the cyclists passing by she decided to offer them free water. Long story short: After water came food and later she turned the house into a "Bike House" where cyclists could sleep.
Since then several thousands have stopped at the bike house, posing for a polaroid, signing the logbook and leaving some memorabilia behind. The house is full with postcards, letters and other stuff beyond imagination. Being there felt like visiting a time-capsule - I didn't want to touch anything.
June Curry died about one year ago, the house is still open for every cyclist seeking shelter.

Pictures will follow, I'm probably not able to get internet the next 2 days.